Sewing Seeds Cardigan Pt 2

knittingpatterns

Oct 13

For the free pattern of this design please continue on this page. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with all extras/charts for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks.

THIS IS PART 2 OF THE PATTERN. IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR PART 1, PLEASE CLICK HERE

THANK YOU! to all my wonderful testers!

Sandra, Wren, Kat, and Larissa

Sandra - 2XL with +16" ease - Falkgarn Tanja

Wren - 3XL with +12" ease - Caron One Pound

Kat - XL with +5" ease - Lion brand schitts creek weight 4

Larissa - M with +13" ease - Drops Big Merino

Sandra - 2XL with +16" ease - Falkgarn Tanja

Wren - 3XL with +12" ease - Caron One Pound

Kat - XL with +5" ease - Lion brand schitts creek weight 4

Larissa - M with +13" ease - Drops Big Merino

Sandra - 2XL with +16" ease - Falkgarn Tanja

Wren - 3XL with +12" ease - Caron One Pound

Kat - XL with +5" ease - Lion brand schitts creek weight 4

Larissa - M with +13" ease - Drops Big Merino

Sandra - 2XL with +16" ease - Falkgarn Tanja

Wren - 3XL with +12" ease - Caron One Pound

Kat - XL with +5" ease - Lion brand schitts creek weight 4

Larissa - M with +13" ease - Drops Big Merino

I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #sewingseedscardigan

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

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WHAT YOU NEED:

Needles: Size 5.5mm and 5mm or sizes needed to obtain gauge

Yarn: Worsted Weight 4 yarn. Sample knit in Lion Brand Touch of Alpaca. 1200(1300, 1410, 1500, 1620, 1700, 1850) yards

Gauge: 17 st/24 rows = 4” w/ 5.5mm needles in stockinette. Gauge is after blocking.

Other: stitch markers, scissors, waste yarn or stitch holders

Suggested Bust Measurements: Measurements will be in inches throughout.
S: 32”-35”, M: 36”-39”, L: 40”-43”, XL: 44”-47”, 2XL: 48”-51”, 3XL: 52”-55”, 4XL: 56”-59”

Finished Garment Sizing: Size is after blocking. Worn with 10” - 13” of positive ease. S: bust - 46“ x Length - 30“, M: bust - 50“ x Length - 30“, L: bust - 54“ x Length - 31“, XL: bust - 58“ x Length - 31“, 2XL: bust - 62“ x Length - 32“, 3XL: bust - 66“ x Length - 32“, 4XL: bust - 70“ x Length - 33“

Model: model is 4’11” tall, 38” bust, 30” waist, 40” hips wearing size small, with 8” positive ease in bust.

ABBREVIATIONS:

CO: cast on. I used the cable cast on.

RS: right side

WS: wrong side

St/sts: stitch/stitches

Rep: repeat

Cont: continue

Dec: decrease

Sl1kw: slip one stitch knitwise. slip your stitch knitwise from your left needle to the right without knitting it.

K: knit

P: purl

Pm: place stitch marker

Sm: slip stitch marker

Ssk: slip, slip, knit. It is a left leaning decrease on the RS. slip the first stitch as if to knit onto right-hand needles, slip the second stitch as if to knit, then slide the left-hand needle into the front part of both stitches and knit them together.

K2tog: knit two together. It is a right leaning decrease on the RS.

P2tog: purl 2 together. Left leaning dec on WS, Right leaning dec on RS.

P2togtbl: purl 2 together through the back loop. Right leaning dec on WS, Left leaning dec on RS.

BO: bind off.

Notes:

Sizes: Pattern is written as follows: S(M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL). This is a drop shoulder cardigan, meaning the bust measurements also affect the sleeve length. When choosing your size, use both the suggested measurements and the measurements of the actual cardigan. The cardigan is meant to be worn with 10”-13” of positive ease as a suggestion. But, knowing your body and how you like to wear your drop shoulders helps in picking the size you will want to make. The cardigan looks great with anything from 4”-16” of positive ease. Take that information with you when choosing which size to make.

Construction: Cardigan is knit bottom up. Then, while keeping the other sections on stitch holders or waste yarn, the front panels and back are knit independently. The shoulders are seamed leaving the collar unfinished and the sleeves are seamed to the shoulders. Then, the collar is finished with join-as-you-go knitting.

Length: If you would like a longer cardigan, add rows to the portion of the cardigan before you start the decreases for the neckline.

Neckline/Sleeve Decreases: I made my neckline/sleeve decreases 3 stitches in from the seed stitch collar band/end, because I don’t like them right against the band/side of the work. On the RS, I ssk at the beginning of the row and k2tog at the end of the row. On the WS, p2togtbl at the beginning of the row and p2tog at the end of the row
Seed Stitch: Make sure that you don’t tighten your tension when you go from the seed stitch to stockinette. A tighter tension on the seed stitch, especially at the collar, will result in the collar rolling under.

THE PATTERN:

THIS IS PART 2 OF THE PATTERN. IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR PART 1, PLEASE CLICK HERE

Shoulder Seams and Collar:

Before seaming your shoulders, block the cardigan. Seam the shoulders with the mattress stitch, leaving the 8 collar stitches on both sides unseamed (the sts on the st holder and the bound off sts of the collar on the opposite front panel). Next, we are going to finish the collar along the back of the neck using a “join-as-you-go” knitting method. A good video to show you the basics of this method can be found here: https://youtu.be/S8p5b9ga6yA . The back of the neck sts that you will be picking up will be the BO sts (like you would pick up if you were working a normal rib collar).

Tip: depending on your tension, pick up every other st on the back of the neck, or skip every 3rd or 4th st. For my collar, I picked up 3 back of neck sts, then skipped the 4th st along the back. Remember, picking up too many sts will make the back of the collar loose and wavy, picking up too few will make the back of the collar too tight on the neck and pucker.

Collar:

Place the sts from the waste yarn/st holder back onto your 5mm needles.

Row 1: With WS facing you, sl1kw, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, sl last st kw, yo, pick up the first BO st on the back of the sweater that is un-worked after the shoulder seam, slip the sl st and the yo you just did over the st that you picked up, turn your work.

Row 2: with yarn in front sl1 purlwise, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, p1 through the back loop. (this is just to turn this one st. For the remainder of the back of the collar, just do a normal p st).

Cont. in pattern until you have picked up the back of the neck sts and joined your collar to your back of neck. BO then seam the 2 sides of the collar together.

Sleeves:

We will be making 2 sleeves. Much like the neckline, the sleeves are going to decrease 3 sts from the sides on both the RS and WS to maintain an even slope. Check out the notes section for how to decrease. There is a section of 8 sts of seed stitch in the center of the sleeves. Follow the directions for your size below.

Small/Medium:

Long Tail CO 94 sts (this counts as Row 1)

Row 2 (WS): p43, pm, *k1, p1* x4, pm, p43

Row 3 (RS, dec row): k2, ssk, k to marker, sm, *p1, k1* x4, sm, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2

Row 4: p to marker, sm, *k1, p1* x4, sm, p to end

Row 5: k to marker, sm, *p1, k1* x4, sm, k to end

Row 6 (WS, dec row): p2, p2tog, p to marker, sm, *k1, p1* x4, sm, p to last 4 sts, p2togtbl, p2

Row 7 - Row 96: cont in pattern. Dec 1 st on each side every 3rd row 18 more times, then dec 1 st on each side every 4th row 9 times. (29 total dec, 36 sts remaining)

Cuff change to a 5mm needle:

Row 97: *k2, p2* rep * * to end of row.

Row 98: *k2, p2* rep ** to end of row.

Row 99 - Row 108: rep the 2x2 rib

BO - Go to Assembly

Large/XL:

Long Tail CO 104 sts (this counts as Row 1)

Row 2 (WS): p48, pm, *k1, p1* x4, pm, k48

Row 3 (RS, dec row): k2, ssk, k to marker, sm, *p1, k1* x4, sm, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2

Row 4: p to marker, sm, *k1, p1* x4, sm, p to end

Row 5: k to marker, sm, *p1, k1* x4, sm, k to end

Row 6 (WS, dec row): p2, p2tog, p to marker, sm, *k1, p1* x4, sm, p to last 4 sts, p2togtbl, p2

Row 7 - Row 96: cont in pattern knitting all RS rows and purling all WS rows. Dec 1 st on each side every 3rd row 30 more times. (32 total dec, 40 sts remaining)

Cuff change to a 5mm needle:

Row 97: *k2, p2* rep * * to end of row.

Row 98: *k2, p2* rep ** to end of row.

Row 99 - Row 108: rep the 2x2 rib

BO - Go to Assembly

2XL/3XL:

Long Tail CO 112 sts (this counts as Row 1)

Row 2 (WS, dec row): p2, p2tog, p48, pm, *k1, p1* x4, pm, p48, p2togtbl, p2

Row 3 (RS): k to marker, sm, *p1, k1* x4, sm, k to end

Row 4 - Row 96: cont in pattern knitting all RS rows and purling all WS rows. Dec 1 st on each side every 2nd row 5 more times, then dec 1 st every 3rd row 28 times. (34 total dec, 44 sts remaining)

Cuff change to a 5mm needle:

Row 97: *k2, p2* rep * * to end of row.

Row 98: *k2, p2* rep ** to end of row.

Row 99 - Row 108: rep the 2x2 rib

BO - Go to Assembly

4XL:

Long Tail CO 120 sts (this counts as Row 1)

Row 2 (WS, dec row): p2, p2tog, p52, pm, *k1, p1* x4, pm, p52, p2togtbl, p2

Row 3 (RS):k to marker, sm, *p1, k1* x4, sm, k to end

Row 4 - Row 96: cont in pattern knitting all RS rows and purling all WS rows. Dec 1 st on each side every 2nd row 11 more times, then dec 1 st every 3rd row 24 times. (36 total dec, 48 sts remaining)

Cuff change to a 5mm needle:

Row 97: *k2, p2* rep * * to end of row.

Row 98: *k2, p2* rep ** to end of row.

Row 99 - Row 108: rep the 2x2 rib

BO - Go to Assembly

Assembly:

Using the mattress stitch, seam the sleeves on to the body of the cardigan, then seam down the length of the sleeves. Weave in all ends and block a final time if so desired.

Enjoy your cardigan!

Happy Creating!

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I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!

Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #sewingseedscardigan

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
Ravelry: RavinSekai
Etsy: Ravin Sekai Designs
Instagram: @ravinsekaidesigns
Pinterest: Ravin Sekai Designs
Patreon: Ravin Sekai Designs

Hi! I’m Rachel.

I’m a quirky world traveller, avid knitter, crochet lover, pattern maker, and all around nerd! I spend a lot of time clowning around, and I often have the goofiest smile on my face. This website is the landing place for my new patterns, random thoughts, and general craziness. I hope you enjoy my randomness and my yarnie goodness!