Wisteria Drops Kimono
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ABOUT THIS RUANA:
If there’s one thing in my summer wardrobe that I have a ton of, it’s kimono and summer cardigans. I am one of those people who really hates showing their arms. I don’t know why, it just is what it is. So, kimono and ruana are my very best friends. I just LOVE LOVE LOVE them! There’s just nothing better.
But, summer kimono have to meet a very specific set of perimeters for me to love them. First off, cotton. Or, if not 100% cotton, something that is airy and light that doesn’t make me turn into a sweat monster! Second, they need to have nice drape! And, lastly, they have to be interesting to look at. Lace, stripes, open-work stitches.
Well, this is the Wisteria Drops Kimono, and in my humble opinion, it has EVERYTHING that I love in summer kimono. Good drape, cotton, open stitches, colorwork. It has everything! And, it’s cute enough to either dress up a summer dress or throw on over a casual outfit for a day out shopping or hanging with friends. It also looks great as a swimsuit cover up!
This kimono is made with Lily Sugar’n Cream yarn and a 7mm hook so that, even though Sugar’n Cream is a heavier cotton yarn, the larger hook makes sure the stitches drape are a lot more open. Perfect for summer.
Lily Sugar’n Cream yarn is a medium weight 4 cotton yarn. To keep the kimono cool for summer, I would suggest using a cotton yarn to create it. Some good substitutes for this yarn would be Lion Brand 24/7 cotton or Bernat Handicrafter cotton.
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to my awesome testers!
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WHAT YOU NEED:
Needle Size: 7mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
Yarn: Medium weight 4 yarn. Samples crocheted in Lily Sugar’n Cream. 218(250, 300)g C1(Soft Ecru), 300g C2(Soft Violet), and 89(120, 175)g C3(Blue Jeans)
Gauge: 10.25 st / 6.4 rows= 4” in dc
Ideal Bust Measurements: S/M : 32”-39”, L/XL: 40”-47”, 2XL/3XL: 48”-55”
Kimono Sizing Laid Flat : S/M: 30” wide x 26.5” long, L/XL: 34” wide x 27.75” long, 2XL/3XL: 38” wide x 29” long
Model Size: model is 4’11” tall with 35” bust wearing size S/M.
ABBREVIATIONS
Abbreviations in US terms
C1, C2, C3: color 1, 2, and 3
Ch: chain
Sl st: slip stitch
Sc: single crochet
Dc: double crochet
Yo: yarn over
Berry st: yo and insert hook into next st, yo and draw through a loop, yo and draw through first loop on hook, yo and insert hook into same st, yo and draw through a loop, yo and draw through all 5 loops on hook
Sk: skip
Rep: repeat
FO: fasten off
Cont.: continue
SM: stitch marker
RS: right side. The side you will have facing outward.
Notes:
The model for this kimono (that’s me) is pretty short (4’11”). If you’d like a longer kimono ch more stitches. However, make sure that you always have an odd number of stitches. For each size larger, I added 6 sts for L/XL and 12 sts for 2XL/3XL. 6 sts is about 1.25 inches. That should give you an idea of how many stitches to add if you’d like to make your kimono longer.
You may choose to fasten off each color when you change colors then weave in all the ends. Or, you can carry the yarn up the sides. If you decide to carry your yarn, you will have to split your skeins into 2 so that you have yarn that starts on either side (you will understand this better after starting the kimono). This is what I did because I hate weaving in ends. The edging along the bottom of the kimono will hide the carried yarn.
This kimono is awesome in all kinds of colors, but it would also be gorgeous in just one color as well.
S/M Sizes
Side 1
With C1 Ch 139
Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook (makes 1 ch3 and 1 dc), 135dc. Turn. (137st)
Row 2: Change to C2, ch1 (counts as first sc), * berry st into next st, sc into next st* rep * * with last sc into starting ch below, turn. (137st) (it is a bit hard to see this st on subsequent rows, so it might be good to place a sm in it so you can see it)
Row 3: ch1 (count as first sc), sc to end, Turn. (137st)
Row 4 - Row 5: rep Row 2 - 3 again.
Row 6: ch1 (counts as first sc), * berry st into next st, sc into next st* rep * * with last sc into starting ch1 below, turn. (137st)
Row 7 - Row 8: Change to C1, ch3 (counts as 1 dc), 136dc. Turn. (137st)
Row 9: Change to C3, ch4 (counts as 1 dc and 1 ch1), *sk1, dc in next, ch1* rep * * until end, dc in turning ch below. Turn.
Row 10: ch3 (counts as 1 dc), *dc in ch1 space below, ch1* rep * * across until ch4 below, dc in top of ch4, dc in ch3 of ch4 below. Turn.
Row 11: Change to C1, ch3, (counts as 1 dc), dc in each dc and ch1 below across. Turn. (137st)
Change back to C2 and Rep Row 2 - Row 11 once more.
Row 22: Change to C2, ch1 (counts as first sc), * berry st into next st, sc into next st* rep * * with last sc into starting ch below, turn. (137st)
Row 23: ch1 (count as first sc), sc to end, Turn. (137st)
Row 24 - Row 25: rep Row 22 - 23 again.
Row 26: ch1 (counts as first sc), * berry st into next st, sc into next st* rep * * with last sc into starting ch1 below, turn. (137st)
Row 27 - Row 28: Change to C1, ch3 (counts as 1 dc), 136dc. Turn. (137st)
Row 29: Change to C3, ch4 (counts as 1 dc and 1 ch1), *sk1, dc in next, ch1* rep * * until end, dc in turning ch below.
FO
Side 2
Rep Row 1 - Row 28. Do not finish Row 29 yet,
Go to Assembly and Finishing below
L/XL Sizes
Side 1
With C1 Ch 145
Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook (makes 1 ch3 and 1 dc), 141dc. Turn. (143st)
Row 2: Change to C2, ch1 (counts as first sc), * berry st into next st, sc into next st* rep * * with last sc into starting ch below, turn. (143st) (it is a bit hard to see this st on subsequent rows, so it might be good to place a sm in it so you can see it)
Row 3: ch1 (count as first sc), sc to end, Turn. (143st)
Row 4 - Row 5: rep Row 2 - 3 again.
Row 6: ch1 (counts as first sc), * berry st into next st, sc into next st* rep * * with last sc into starting ch1 below, turn. (143st)
Row 7 - Row 8: Change to C1, ch3 (counts as 1 dc), 142dc. Turn. (143st)
Row 9: Change to C3, ch4 (counts as 1 dc and 1 ch1), *sk1, dc in next, ch1* rep * * until end, dc in turning ch below. Turn.
Row 10: ch3 (counts as 1 dc), *dc in ch1 space below, ch1* rep * * across until ch4 below, dc in top of ch4, dc in ch3 of ch4 below. Turn.
Row 11 - Row 12: Change to C1, ch3, (counts as 1 dc), dc in each dc and ch1 below. Turn. (143st)
Row 13: Change to C2, ch1 (count as first sc), sc to end, Turn. (143st)
Rep Row 2 - Row 11 once more.
Row 24: ch1 (counts as first sc), * berry st into next st, sc into next st* rep * * with last sc into starting ch below, turn. (143st)
Row 25: ch1 (count as first sc), sc to end, Turn. (143st)
Row 26 - Row 27: rep Row 24 - 25 again.
Row 28: ch1 (counts as first sc), * berry st into next st, sc into next st* rep * * with last sc into starting ch1 below, turn. (143st)
Row 29 - Row 30: Change to C1, ch3 (counts as 1 dc), 142dc. Turn. (143st)
Row 31: Change to C3, ch4 (counts as 1 dc and 1 ch1), *sk1, dc in next, ch1* rep * * until end, dc in turning ch below.
FO
Side 2
Rep Row 1 - Row 30. Do not finish Row 31 yet,
Go to Assembly and Finishing below
2XL/3XL Sizes
Side 1
With C1 Ch 151
Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook (makes 1 ch3 and 1 dc), 147dc. Turn. (149st)
Row 2: Change to C2, ch1 (counts as first sc), * berry st into next st, sc into next st* rep * * with last sc into starting ch below, turn. (149st) (it is a bit hard to see this st on subsequent rows, so it might be good to place a sm in it so you can see it)
Row 3: ch1 (count as first sc), sc to end, Turn. (149st)
Row 4 - Row 5: rep Row 2 - 3 again.
Row 6: ch1 (counts as first sc), * berry st into next st, sc into next st* rep * * with last sc into starting ch1 below, turn. (149st)
Row 7 - Row 8: Change to C1, ch3 (counts as 1 dc), 148dc. Turn. (149st)
Row 9: Change to C3, ch4 (counts as 1 dc and 1 ch1), *sk1, dc in next, ch1* rep * * until end, dc in turning ch below. Turn.
Row 10: ch3 (counts as 1 dc), *dc in ch1 space below, ch1* rep * * across until ch4 below, dc in top of ch4, dc in ch3 of ch4 below. Turn.
Row 11 - Row 12: Change to C1, ch3, (counts as 1 dc), dc in each dc and ch1 below. Turn. (149st)
Row 13: Change to C2, ch1 (count as first sc), sc to end, Turn. (149st)
Rep Row 2 - Row 13 once more.
Row 26: ch1 (counts as first sc), * berry st into next st, sc into next st* rep * * with last sc into starting ch below, turn. (149st)
Row 27: ch1 (count as first sc), sc to end, Turn. (149st)
Row 28 - Row 29: rep Row 26 - 27 again.
Row 30: ch1 (counts as first sc), * berry st into next st, sc into next st* rep * * with last sc into starting ch1 below, turn. (149st)
Row 31 - Row 32: Change to C1, ch3 (counts as 1 dc), 148dc. Turn. (149st)
Row 33: Change to C3, ch4 (counts as 1 dc and 1 ch1), *sk1, dc in next, ch1* rep * * until end, dc in turning ch below.
FO
Side 2
Rep Row 1 - Row 32. Do not finish Row 33 yet
Go to Assembly and Finishing below
Assembly
Back: Place both panels side by side, RS up, with Panel 1 on the right and Panel 2 on the left with Row 28(30, 32) and Row 29(31, 33) together. Put a SM in the 69th(71st, 75th) st on Panel 2.
On Panel 2 with C3 ch3, remove hook from loop, place hook through 1st ch1 space on Panel 1, put loop back on hook and pull through, ch1, on Panel 2 sk1 and dc in next st. Remove loop from hook, place hook through next ch1 space on Panel 1, put loop back on hook and pull through, ch1, sk1 on Panel 2 and dc in next.
Cont in this manner until you reach the sm. Then, finish Row 29(31, 33) as normal.
FO
Seam Sides: Fold kimono’s front panels down. Place a SM 9”(10”, 10.5”) from shoulder. With C1, seam sides from bottom up to sm.
Finishing
Row 1: Flip kimono upside-down with RS facing. Attach C3 yarn at the right side (bottom of kimono) and sc evenly across to corner of opposite front panel, with an odd number of sts. (I placed 2 sc in each dc, and 1 sc in each of the C2 rows.) Turn.
Row 2: ch4 (counts as 1 dc and 1 ch1), *sk1, dc in next, ch1* rep * * until end, dc in turning ch below.
FO
Weave in ends and block kimono
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I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!
Please share your creations with the community on social media by tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #wisteriadropskimono
I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!
Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
Ravelry: RavinSekai
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