For the free pattern for this garment please continue on this page. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad free PDF download with full chart for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks.

About this Shawl:

Ok guy, I’m gonna let you in on a little secret. This is actually one of the very first items I ever designed myself! I made the original version to wear over a Halloween costume of all things (on left). I’ve been sitting on it for over 3 years now, because, when I first designed it, I never ever believed other people would want to make it for themselves. I didn’t write any of the directions down aside from some random notes on scape paper I had sitting by the couch at the time. Over the years and multiple moves we’ve had, I’ve lost those original notes, but I still wanted to finally get the pattern for what turned out to be a gorgeous shawl written up so others can enjoy it. It’s crazy what time and a little perspective will show you.

I also wanted to rework this piece, because I’m always drawn to things that are ‘pretty’ or ‘delicate’ looking. I’m very much the quintessential girly girl in style most of the time. But, lately I’ve found my wardrobe lacking some necessary pieces. I realized I didn’t have a shawl that screamed LOOK AT ME that wasn’t monochromatic. So, that’s how this piece was ultimately re-created. I wanted something that would flow from my needles fairly easily, but that was also interesting. I also wanted to incorporate some of that pretty and delicate vibe.

This is a wonderfully soft, drapey shawl that is absolutely perfect for so many occasional. It’s great to use as a gorgeous scarf on a cold winter day or as a wrap for those chilly spring or fall evenings. It’s even great to bring along when you plan to be in a super air-conditioned room during summer (you know, like movie theatres, am I right?)
The shawl uses alternating stripes that slowly reduce in size making the basic garter stitch have an interesting effect (not basic!) and also a really lovely lace panel to add that delicate and pretty factor.

I used Knit Picks Gloss DK in colorways Hawk and Velveteen. However, I know Knit Picks tends to be on the pricey side (usually worth it). Bernat Softee Baby has a similar gauge, drape, and softness so it makes a great substitute. Also, Caron Simply soft is an adequate substitution. Though, its gauge isn’t quite the same and its softness/drape is also a bit different.

I used 3 skeins of each color in Knit Picks Gloss DK. However, in the velveteen, I ended up playing a bit of Yarn Roulette with it because I carried my yarn throughout the project. To be absolutely sure you have enough yarn, you can buy a 4th skein of whichever color you plan to use for the lace panel. Or, you can be a rebel like me, and just see what happens!

I love to see what you create!

Please share your creations with the community on social media by tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #tempestslullshawl

I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!

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Ravin Sekai Designs - Tempest's Lull Shawl 1

What You Need:

Needles: 4 - 4.25mm, 48” circular needles. (I used 4.25mm needles. I know a lot of people will not have this size of circular needles. I bought my Clover Takumi circular needles in Japan and have the JP size 7 in my set. If you don’t have this size, going to 4mm or US6 UK8 would work as well with only a small change in gauge. As always, swatch swatch swatch just to make sure you’re going to get what you’re setting out for. You might want to up the size instead and use a 4.5mm, who knows (you will… if you swatch… lol)).

Yarn: Weight 3 DK yarn. Sample knit in Knit Picks Gloss DK, (70% Merino Wool 30% silk). 3 skeins color 1 (I used colorway Hawk) and 3 skeins color 2 ( I used Velveteen). APROX. 370 yrds each color, 740 yrds total.

Knit Picks yarn tends to be on the higher end pricewise. If you’re looking for a more price savvy option, Bernat Softee Baby is a close match to gauge and drape. Caron Simply Soft is also a good alternative, but the gauge is a bit different. If you decide to use a substitute yarn, make sure you gauge swatch to make sure you’ll get the results you want.

Gauge: 20st/40rows = 4” in garter stitch.

Finished Garment Size: 56.5in wide x 27in from top to point.

Ravin Sekai Designs - Tempest's Lull Shawl 2

Skills Needed/ Abbreviations:

RS: right side

WS: wrong side

St: stitch

Sl st kw: slip right-hand needle into the 1st stitch on the left-hand needle like you are going to knit it. Without knitting it, simple slip it to the right-hand needle. Continue knitting as usual.

Yo: yarn over

PM: place stitch marker

SM: slip marker

Cont: continue

K: knit

P: purl

K2tog: knit 2 stitches together

Ssk: slip, slip, knit. slip the first stitch as if to knit onto right-hand needles, slip the second stitch as if to knit, then slide the left-hand needle into the front part of both stitches and knit them together.

Sl1-k2tog-psso: slip one stitch to the right-hand needle knitwise, knit the next 2 stitches together, pass the previously slipped stitch over the k2tog and off the right-hand needle

C1 and C2: color 1 and color 2. For my shawl, C1 is the grey (Hawk) and C2 is lavender (Velveteen)

The Pattern:

For the free pattern for this garment please continue on this page. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad free PDF download with full chart for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks.

The first portion of this shawl is made up of a simple garter stitch pattern made by alternating C1 and C2. A quick rundown of this pattern would be as follows: after the garter tab setup, knit 24 rows of C1, 2 rows C2, 10-C1, 2-C2, 10-C1, 2-C2, 10-C1, 2-C2, 8-C1, 2-C2, 8-C1, 2-C2, 8-C1, 2-C2, 6-C1, 2-C2, 6-C1, 2-C2, 4-C1, 2-C2, 4-C1, 2-C2, 2-C1, 2-C2, then you will start the lace panel. (If that was confusing, don’t worry, I have the rows laid out below to let you know when you should be changing colors).

Also, because this is a triangle shawl, this piece has a border of [sl st kw, k2, yo] on the right and [yo, k2, sl st kw] on the left and a spine of [yo, sm, k1, sm, yo] to give it it’s triangle shape.

Set Up Row Garter tab:

With C1 CO 3 stitches

k 7 rows garter st (3st)

Turn piece 90 degrees and pick up and k 3 st along the left edge

Turn 90 degrees again and pick up and knit 3 st from your cast on edge

You should have 9 sts on you needles

Main Body:

Row1 (RS): Sl st kw, K2, yo, k1, yo, PM, k1, PM, yo, k1, yo, k2, sl1 kw (13)

Row 2 and all even Rows (WS): p1, k to last st, p1

Row 3: sl st kw, k2, yo, k3, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k3, yo, k2, sl1 kw (17)

Row 5 - 24: cont. Sl st kw, k2, yo, k to Marker, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to last 3 st, yo, k2, sl1 kw on all RS rows. You will increase 4 sts every RS. On the WS: p1, k to last st, p1

Row 25 - 26: at Row 25 you will change to C2 and k 2 rows.

Row 27 - 36: change back to C1

Row 37 - 38: C2

Row 39 - 48: C1

Row 49 - 50: C2

Row 51 - 60: C1

Row 61 - 62: C2

Row 63 - 70: C1

Row 71 - 72: C2

Row 73 - 80: C1

Row 81 - 82: C2

Row 83 - 90: C1

Row 91 - 92: C2

Row 93 - 98: C1

Row 99 - 100: C2

Row 101 - 106: C1

Row 107 - 108: C2

Row 109 - 112: C1

Row 113 - 114: C2

Row 115 - 118: C1

Row 119 - 120: C2

Row 121 - 122: C1

Row 123 - 124: C2

Ravin Sekai Designs - Tempest's Lull Shawl 3

Start Lace Panel:

For the charts for this pattern, please visit my ravelry or ETSY pages for the 100% ad free pdf version for a small fee.

Cont. with C2

Row 125 (RS): sl st kw, k2, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, [k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1] repeat [ ] until 7 st before st marker, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, [k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1] repeat [ ] until last 10 st, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, k2, sl st kw

Row 126 (ws) and all ws rows of lace panel: p1, k2, p across to last 3 st, k2, p1

Ravin Sekai Designs - Tempest's Lull Shawl 4

Row 127: sl st kw, k2, yo, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, [k1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk], repeat [ ] until 8 st before st marker, k1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, [k1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk], repeat [ ] until last 11 st, k1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, yo, k2, sl st kw

Row 129: sl st kw, k2, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, [k2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1], repeat [ ] until 9 st before st marker, k2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, [k2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1], repeat [ ] until last 12 st, k2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, k2, sl st kw

Row 131: sl st kw, k2, yo, k4, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo, k2, [k3, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo, k2] repeat [ ] until 10 st before st marker, k3, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo, k4, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k4, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo, k2, [k3, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo, k2] until last 13 st, k3, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo, k4, yo, k2, sl st kw

Row 132: p1, k2, p across to last 3 st, k2, p1

Row 133 - 164: repeat Row 125 - Row 132 four more times (5 times in total) adding one set of [ ] on both sides of the spine each repeat

Row 165: sl1 kw, k2, yo, k to Marker, yo, SM, k1, SM, yo, k to last 3 st, yo, k2, sl1 kw

Row 166: p1, k to last st, p1

Bottom Edging:

Change back to C1

Row 167 - Row 168: repeat Row 165 - 166

Row 169: sl st kw, k2, yo, k3, yo, *ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo*, repeat * * to last 4 st before sm, ssk, k2, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, k2, k2tog, [yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog], repeat [ ] across to last 6 st, yo, k3, yo, k2, sl st kw

Row 170: p1, k2, p across to last 3 st, k2, p1

Row 171: sl st kw, k2, yo, k4, yo, *ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo*, repeat * * to last 5 st before sm, ssk, k3 yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, k3, k2tog, [yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog], repeat [ ] across to last 7 st, yo, k4, yo, k2, sl st kw

Row 172: repeat Row 170

BO loosely

Block lace panels AGGRESSIVELY!

The bottom edging of the shawl lends itself well to picot like points, so, when I blocked my shawl, I decided to give my shawl some points. You can do the same, or just block the edging straighter.