Country Festival Top
For the free pattern of this garment please continue on this page. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with full charts for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks.
So after a lovely week of weather in the 20s (70’s?) and getting to wear a cardigan in the morning and at night, we’re back to the hot hot weather! This week we’re gonna be in the low 30s (86-90F) feels like 40 (104F). YAY!
I’ve been trying to get out as much as possible (safely), and I’ve gotten back into my exercise routine. I’ve been walking Vin to work each morning, too. Staying at home has really done a number on my general health and fitness, though, and I am REALLY feeling it these last few weeks. I am so terribly out of shape that when I was working out the other day, doing the 10 minute WARM UP of a workout I’ve done countless times in the past, I nearly died! Well, not really… but I was done for the day and haven’t been the same the last 3 days! I can barely WALK!! haha!
So yeah, time to get on that! Have you gotten the quarantine slump too? Well, we’ll get out of it! But, for now, here’s a top to continue helping us out while we’re still pretty much stuck at home!
ABOUT THIS Top:
This is the Country Festival Top. It gives me some country girl vibes for sure! You can wear it as a regular top, a bathing suit top, or with a couple modifications, you can turn it more into a halter tank top!! Check out the alterations my testers tried!
This top has directions for 5 sizes, S - 2XL which covers sizes 34A - 40DDD. So, there should be directions for just about everyone. And, with a few extra rows in the under-bust, you should have enough support for the girls! Also, since everyone’s chest is a little different, in the notes section you will find some ways to adjust the top so it fits you perfectly!
I created my top in Lily Sugar’n Cream yarn. This yarn is a weight 4, 100% cotton yarn. I used this type of yarn for my summer top because cotton tends to breathe better. But, this top would be lovely in a variety of different weight 4 yarn.
Cotton tends to stretch when wet, so make sure you are conscious of that when making and wearing the top. A way to keep it from stretching is to line the bra cups with fabric. This also will make it so that you won’t have to worry about any accidental peek-a-boob!
THANK YOU! to all my wonderful testers!
Claudia (L long cups), Gianna (M), Jenna (S), Jasmine (S), Rachel (M), Marty (XL Long and short cups), Chanel (M), Chantel (XL long and short cups, L long cups), Lea (L short cups), Tara (2XL long cups) and Sonia (2XL short cups)!
I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!
Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #countryfestivaltop
I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!
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WHAT YOU NEED:
Needle Size: 4mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
Yarn: Medium weight 4 yarn. Sample crocheted in Lily Sugar’n Cream. Approx 171 (215, 230, 250, 350) yards.
Gauge: 14.7 st/ 9 rows in hdc = 4”
Approximate Cup Sizes: S: 34A, 32B, 34B, 30C, M: 36A, 38A, 36B, 32C, 34C, 30D, 32D, 30DD, L: 40A, 38B, 40B, 36C, 34D, 32DD, 34DD, 30DDD, 32DDD, XL: 38C, 40C, 36D, 38D, 40D, 36DD, 34DDD, 2XL: 38DD, 40DD, 36DDD, 38DDD, 40DDD
Model Sizing: model has 35” bust, wears a 34B cup, and is wearing the S size.
ABBREVIATIONS:
Abbreviations in US terms
Ch: chain
Sl st: slip stitch
Sc: single crochet
Dc: double crochet
4dcshell: place 4 dc all into same st
Sk: skip
Rep: repeat
FO: fasten off
Cont.: continue
Notes:
Everyone’s chest is different so the cups might need a little adjusting. Here’s a few ways to make adjustments and decide which top is best for you!
Measure the length and width of a bikini top you really like and choose the cup size that is closest to that size. (sizes on next page)
If you feel like you need a little more side to side coverage for your top, ch the same amount of stitches for your cup size, then add 1 or 2 extra row to the cups.
If you want taller cups (more of a deep cleavage tank top), ch more sts to start your cup (I’d suggest between 19-21 at the most).
If you need extra support under your breasts, add a few extra rows of dc in the under-bust for support before you start the shell design.
If you have larger breasts, but a smaller rib cage, after Row 1 for Bottom Panel and Back Ties, check that your back panel is not too wide and that it doesn’t overlap behind your back when you tie your ties. If it does, follow the directions for a smaller top/start your panels farther in from the end of your ties.
THE PATTERN:
For the free pattern of this garment please continue on this page. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with full charts for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks.
Bra Cups
Approx sizes (width x height):
Before Border
S: 6” x 6.5”
M: 6.5” x 7.25”
L: 7.25” x 7.75”
XL: 8” x 8.5”
2XL: 8.75” x 9”
After Cup Decoration:
S: 7” x 7”
M: 7.5” x 7.75”
L: 8.25” x 8.25”
XL: 9” x 9”
2XL: 9.75” x 9.5”
Cup 1:
Ch13 (15, 13, 15, 13)
Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook (counts as 1 dc), 9 (11, 9, 11, 9) hdc down ch, 5hdcshell in last ch, turn piece and 10 (12, 10, 12, 10) hdc working down the back side of ch. Turn. (Each row increases by 4st. 25, 29, 25, 29, 25 st)
Row 2: ch2 (does not count as st), hdc in each hdc below until center st of 5hdcshell, 5hdcshell into center st, hdc in each hdc to end. (Make sure you don’t add a st here). Turn.
Row 3 -7(8, 9, 10, 11): cont. in same manner as Row 2 until you have the correct sized cup. (49, 57, 57, 65, 65 st)
FO
Cup 2:
Rep Row 1 - 7(8, 9, 10, 11)
FO
**If you feel like you need more coverage, go ahead and work one or more rows into the cups until you like the coverage**
Bottom Panel and Back Ties:
Ch 70(70, 80, 80, 100).
Attach ch to bottom of bra cup with a sc (counts as 1 sc), then sc evenly along the bottom of the cup in multiples of 4 [Count how many rows you have on your cups first. Usually, picking up 1 st for each row will work for this portion. If needed, pick up 2 extra sts, one per cup, to make sure you have a multiple of 4.], ch1 (counts as 1 st), attach to 2nd cup with sc (counts as 1 sc) and then sc evenly along bottom of 2nd cup in multiples of 4. (multiples of 4 +3 sts)
Ch70(70, 80, 80, 100)
FO
Row 1: starting at the 21(21, 25, 25, 29) ch from the right hand cup, working towards the cup, attach yarn and ch3 (does not count as a st). Dc in same ch, dc in each ch across towards cup, dc in each sc across 1st cup, 1 dc in ch between cups, dc in each sc across next cup, and dc in the ch until 21(21, 25, 25, 29) ch after 2nd cup. (You should end up with a multiple of 4 sts +1). Turn.
If you have larger breasts, but a smaller rib cage, check that your back panel is not too wide and that it doesn’t overlap behind your back when you tie your ties. If it does, follow the directions for a smaller top/start your panels farther in from the end of your ties.
For M and L: make one more row of dc. (2 total)
For XL and 2XL: make two more rows of dc (3 total)
**If you feel you might need more support for larger breasts, repeat Row 1 as many times as needed**
Row 2(3, 3, 4, 4): ch3 (count as a st), 3dc into same st, [sk3, 4dcshell in next st] rep [ ] across placing last 4dcshell in last dc of previous row. Turn.
Row 3(4, 4, 5, 5): ch6, *sk 3, sc in next st, ch5* (be careful not to miss the 1st st) rep * * across, sk3, place last sc in ch3 of previous row. Turn.
Row 4(5, 5, 6, 6): *Ch 5, sc in ch 5 space* rep * * across row, sc in 1st ch of ch6 of previous row. Turn.
Row 5(6, 6, 7, 7): *Ch 5, sc in ch 5 space* across. Turn.
Row 6(7, 7, 8, 8): rep Row 4
Row 7(8, 8, 9, 9): ch3, 4dc in each ch5 across to last ch5, dc in1st ch of the last ch5 of previous row.
Do Not Fasten Off. Turn 90 degrees.
Cup Decoration and Finishing:
Ch1
Row 1: sc evenly up side to long ch, place 3 sc in the back side of the 1st dc on ch, turn 90 degrees, sc in back of dc towards cups, at cups, [ch2, sk1, sc in next st] around cup, until last 4 st on 1st cup, ch1, sc in the 4th st of opposite cup, rep [ ] around 2nd cup, sc in back of dc towards end, place 3 sc in back side of last dc, turn 90 degrees and sc evenly down final side.
FO
**If the connector ch1 st does not land on the 4th to last st on the right side bra cup, you missed the first st on the cup**
Row 2: Reattach yarn at bottom of right side cup in the first ch2 from previous row w/ a sl st, [sc, ch3, sc] all in ch2 space, cont. [ ] around both cups placing one [ ] in the ch1 between cups as well.
FO
**For larger breasts, if you feel you need a little more structure for your top or want to pull the top closed at the front, you can sc the picots together that are 6th from the center on each cup.**
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Happy Crocheting!
I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!
Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #countryfestivaltop
I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!
FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA
Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
Ravelry: RavinSekai
Instagram: @ravinsekaidesigns
Pinterest: Ravin Sekai Designs
Patreon: Ravin Sekai Designs