Ashley Pocket Shawl
For the free pattern of this garment please continue on this page. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with full charts for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks.
ABOUT THIS SHawl:
Pocket shawls are all the rage right now, and why not? They are super cute and cuddly! They give just the right amount of style to a simple outfit, and keep you warm to boot! And, they’re perfect coverups for formal attire, as well. Don’t want to wear a cardigan over your gorgeous dress or outfit? Throw on this gorgeous pocket shawl and you’re ready to go! Make it in white, and you have the perfect accessory for a winter wedding. They are literally awesome for just about any occasion!
For this pattern, I used about 1400 yards of medium weight 4 yarn for the main body and pockets and an additional 65 yards for the fringe, so about 1465-1500 should be enough. I used this weight so that I could have something that was very warm even though it has some open weave. This particular yarn is Lion Brand Pound of Love. But, this shawl would be awesome in just about any weight 4 yarn you want to use, be it wool, cotton, or acrylic!
Also, gauge isn’t really important for this garment. If the shawl is a little larger or a little smaller it doesn’t make a bit of difference, unless you are really looking for a certain size.
This pattern with stated gauge will create a 57" long x 17.5" wide shawl (not including fringe). If you choose to add fringe, the fringe I put on was about 6.5" long after tying on. But, it is super east to add either length or width to the shawl and I tell you how in the notes section.
Hope you enjoy making this shawl as much as I enjoyed designing it!
THANK YOU! to all my wonderful testers!
Illysa, Aide, Lisa, Opal, Lea, Amber, Tiffany, Emily, Chantel, Kat and Thora
I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!
Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #ashleypocketshawl
I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!
FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA
Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
Ravelry: RavinSekai
Instagram: @ravinsekaidesigns
Pinterest: Ravin Sekai Designs
Patreon: Ravin Sekai Designs
WHAT YOU NEED:
Needle Size: 5.5mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
Yarn: medium weight 4 yarn. Sample made with Lion Brand Pound of Love 1400 yrds (620g) no fringe, 1465 yrds (652) with fringe
Gauge: 16 st/ 7 rows in Celtic Weave Stitch = 4” (gauge isn’t super important)
Finished Garment Sizing: 57” long x 17.5” wide (after blocking)
Model Size: model is 4’11” (150cm) tall, 35” bust, usually wears a size small
ABBREVIATIONS:
Abbreviations in US terms
Ch: chain
RS: right side, the side of your crochet that everyone will see.
WS: wrong side, the side of your crochet that no one will see.
St: stitch
Sl st: slip stitch
Sc: single crochet
Hdc: half double crochet
Fphdc: front post half double crochet
Bpdc: back post half double crochet
Dc: double crochet
Fpdc: front post dc
Bpdc: back post dc
Tc: treble crochet
Fptc: front post tc
Bptc: back post tc
Rep: repeat
Sk: skip
FO: fasten of
Notes:
Gauge isn’t particularly important and just about any medium weight 4 yarn will work for this pattern.
A video tutorial on the Celtic Stitch can be found here: Happy Berry Crochet - Celtic Weave Stitch (she does not fptc into the hdc row, but for this pattern you do)
A video tutorial on the Zeros and Crosses stitch can be found here: ByKaterina Designs - Crosses and Zeros Stitch (she crosses in front of the dc, we cross behind. It really doesn’t matter for the pattern look)
If you want a longer shawl, add rows into the middle Celtic Weave section (Row 51 - Row 64) in multiples of 2 rows.
If you want a wider shawl, add sts in multiples of 4 so that you maintain the number needed for all stitches.
Ch2 and ch3 count as 1 stitch unless otherwise stated, so make sure you don’t put a st in the wrong place. Here is a good link to understand where to place the next stitches when the chains count as a stitch. Edie Eckman - Where to put the first stitch.
THE PATTERN:
For the free pattern of this garment please continue on this page. Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with full charts for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks.
Main Body:
Ch 63
Row 1(WS): hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st across row, turn. 62 st
Row 2(RS): ch3 (counts as 1dc), *sk2, fptc in next 2 sts, crossing in front of two fptc just made, work fptc in 2 sk sts*. repeat * * to last st, 1dc. turn.62 st
Row 3: ch3, bptc in next 2 sts, *sk2, bptc next 2 sts, crossing behind the last two bptc made, bptc in 2 sk sts* repeat * * to last 3 sts, bptc in next 2 sts, 1dc. turn. 62 st
Row 4: ch3, *sk2, fptc in next 2, crossing in front of two fptc just made, work fptc in 2 sk sts* repeat * * to last st, 1dc. Turn. 62 st
Row 5 - Row 14: Rep Row 3 - Row 4
Row 15: ch3 (counts as 1 dc), dc across. Turn. 62 st
Row 16 - Row 17: ch2 (does not count as a st), *1fphdc, 1bphdc* across. Turn. 62 st
Row 18: ch4 (counts as 1dc and 1 ch), *sk1, 1dc, ch1* rep * * until last st, 1dc. Turn. 61 st
Row 19: ch3 (counts as 1dc), sk 1st ch1, 1dc forward into next ch1. Then crossing behind 1st dc, 1 dc back into 1st skipped ch1. *Next, 1dc forward into the next unoccupied ch1, then crossing behind 1dc back into previous ch1* rep * * until end, placing last dc forward into ch4, 1dc back into previous ch1, and 1dc into ch4 again. Turn. 60st
Row 20: ch1 (counts as 1 sc), sc in 1st and each st across. turn. 61 st.
Row 21: ch4 (counts as 1dc and 1 ch), *sk1, 1dc, ch1* rep * * until last st, 1dc in ch1 of previous row. Turn. 61 st
Row 22 - Row 27: rep Row 19 - Row 21
Row 28 (inc): ch3 (counts as 1dc), dc across placing 1 dc in each dc and 1 dc in each ch1. Towards the middle of the shawl, place an extra dc in one of the ch1 and make sure you place 2 dc in the final ch4. 62 st
Row 29 - Row 30: ch2, (does not count as a st), *1fphdc, 1bphdc* across. Turn. 62 st
Row 31: ch2 (counts as 1 hdc), hdc in each st across row, turn. 62 st
Row 32: ch3 (counts as 1dc), *sk2, fptc in next 2 sts, crossing in front of two fptc just made, work fptc in 2 sk sts* repeat * * to last st, 1dc. turn. 62 st
Row 33: ch3, bptc in next 2 sts, *sk2, bptc next 2 sts, crossing behind the last two bptc made, bptc in 2 sk sts* repeat * * to last 3 sts, bptc in next 2 sts, 1dc. turn. 62 st
Row 34: ch3, *sk2, fptc in next 2, crossing in front of two fptc just made, work fptc in 2 sk sts* repeat * * to last st, 1dc. Turn. 62 st
Row 35 - Row 36: rep Row 33 - Row 34
Row 37: ch3 (counts as 1 dc), dc across. Turn. 62 st
Row 38 - Row 39: ch2 (does not count as a st), *1fphdc, 1bphdc* across. Turn. 62 st
Row 40: ch4 (counts as 1dc and 1 ch), *sk1, 1dc, ch1* rep * * until last st, 1dc. Turn. 61 st
Row 41: ch3 (counts as 1dc), sk 1st ch1, 1dc forward into next ch1. Then crossing behind 1st dc, 1 dc back into 1st skipped ch1. *Next, 1dc forward into the next unoccupied ch1, then crossing behind 1dc back into previous ch1* rep * * until end, placing last dc forward into ch4, 1dc back into previous ch1, and 1dc into ch4 again. Turn. 60st
Row 42: ch1 (counts as 1 sc), sc in 1st and each st across. turn . 61 st.
Row 43: ch4 (counts as 1dc and 1 ch), *sk1, 1dc, ch1* rep * * until last st, 1dc in ch1 of previous row. Turn. 61 st
Row 44 - Row 46: rep Row 41 - Row 43
Row 47 (inc): ch1, sc in first st, sc across placing 1sc in each dc and 1 sc in each ch1. Towards the middle of the shawl, place an extra, sc in one of the ch1 and make sure you place 2 sc in the final ch4. 62 st
Row 48: ch3 (counts as 1dc), dc across. Turn. 62 st
Row 49 - Row 50: ch2, (does not count as a st), *1fphdc, 1bphdc* across. Turn. 62 st
Row 51: ch2 (counts as 1 hdc), hdc in each st across row, turn. 62 st (this is where you will add rows if you want a longer shawl!)
Row 52: ch3 (counts as 1dc), *sk2, fptc in next 2 sts, crossing in front of two fptc just made, work fptc in 2 sk sts* repeat * * to last st, 1dc. turn. 62 st
Row 53: ch3, bptc in next 2 sts, *sk2, bptc next 2 sts, crossing behind the last two bptc made, bptc in 2 sk sts* repeat * * to last 3 sts, bptc in next 2 sts, 1dc. turn. 62 st
Row 54: ch3, *sk2, fptc in next 2, crossing in front of two fptc just made, work fptc in 2 sk sts* repeat * * to last st, 1dc. Turn. 62 st
Row 55 - Row 64: rep Row 53 - Row 54
Row 65: ch3 (counts as 1dc), dc across. Turn. 62 st
Row 66 - Row 67: ch2, (does not count as a st), *1fphdc, 1bphdc* across. Turn. 62 st
Row 68: ch4 (counts as 1dc and 1 ch), *sk1, 1dc, ch1* rep * * until last st, 1dc. Turn. 61 st
Row 69: ch3 (counts as 1dc), sk 1st ch1, 1dc forward into next ch1. Then crossing behind 1st dc, 1 dc back into 1st skipped ch1. *Next, 1dc forward into the next unoccupied ch1, then crossing behind 1dc back into previous ch1* rep * * until end, placing last dc forward into ch4, 1dc back into previous ch1, and 1dc into ch4 again. Turn. 60st
Row 70: ch1 (counts as 1 sc), sc in 1st and each st across. turn . 61 st.
Row 71: ch4 (counts as 1dc and 1 ch), *sk1, 1dc, ch1* rep * * until last st, 1dc in ch1 of previous row. Turn. 61 st
Row 72 - Row 74: rep Row 69 - Row 71
Row 75 (inc): ch1, sc in first st, sc across placing 1sc in each dc and 1 sc in each ch1. Towards the middle of the shawl, place an extra, sc in one of the ch1 and make sure you place 2 sc in the final ch4. 62 st
Row 76: ch3 (counts as 1 dc), dc across. Turn. 62 st
Row 77 - Row 78: ch2 (does not count as a st), *1fphdc, 1bphdc* across. Turn. 62 st
Row 79: ch2 (counts as 1 hdc), hdc in each st across row, turn. 62 st
Row 80: ch3 (counts as 1dc), *sk2, fptc in next 2 sts, crossing in front of two fptc just made, work fptc in 2 sk sts* repeat * * to last st, 1dc. turn. 62 st
Row 81: ch3, bptc in next 2 sts, *sk2, bptc next 2 sts, crossing behind the last two bptc made, bptc in 2 sk sts* repeat * * to last 3 sts, bptc in next 2 sts, 1dc. turn. 62 st
Row 82: ch3, *sk2, fptc in next 2, crossing in front of two fptc just made, work fptc in 2 sk sts* repeat * * to last st, 1dc. Turn. 62 st
Row 83 - Row 84: rep Row 81 - Row 82
Row 85: ch3 (counts as 1 dc), dc across. Turn. 62 st
Row 86 - Row 87: ch2 (does not count as a st), *1fphdc, 1bphdc* across. Turn. 62 st
Row 88: ch4 (counts as 1dc and 1 ch), *sk1, 1dc, ch1* rep * * until last st, 1dc. Turn. 61 st
Row 89: ch3 (counts as 1dc), sk 1st ch1, 1dc forward into next ch1. Then crossing behind 1st dc, 1 dc back into 1st skipped ch1. *Next, 1dc forward into the next unoccupied ch1, then crossing behind 1dc back into previous ch1* rep * * until end, placing last dc forward into ch4, 1dc back into previous ch1, and 1dc into ch4 again. Turn. 60st
Row 90: ch1 (counts as 1 sc), sc in 1st and each st across. turn . 61 st.
Row 91: ch4 (counts as 1dc and 1 ch), *sk1, 1dc, ch1* rep * * until last st, 1dc in ch1 of previous row. Turn. 61 st
Row 92 - Row 97: rep Row 89 - Row 91
Row 98 (inc): ch3 (counts as 1dc), dc across placing 1 dc in each dc and 1 dc in each ch1. Towards the middle of the shawl, place an extra dc in one of the ch1 and make sure you place 2 dc in the final ch4. 62 st
Row 99 - Row 100: ch2 (does not count as a st), *1fphdc, 1bphdc* across. Turn. 62 st
Row 101: ch2 (counts as 1 hdc), hdc in each st across row, turn. 62 st
Row 102: ch3 (counts as 1dc), *sk2, fptc in next 2 sts, crossing in front of two fptc just made, work fptc in 2 sk sts* repeat * * to last st, 1dc. turn. 62 st
Row 103: ch3, bptc in next 2 sts, *sk2, bptc next 2 sts, crossing behind the last two bptc made, bptc in 2 sk sts* repeat * * to last 3 sts, bptc in next 2 sts, 1dc. turn. 62 st
Row 104: ch3, *sk2, fptc in next 2, crossing in front of two fptc just made, work fptc in 2 sk sts* repeat * * to last st, 1dc. Turn. 62 st
Row 105 - Row 114: rep Row 103 - Row 104 Do Not FO.
Border:
Round 1 (WS): ch3 (does not count as 1 dc), dc in same st and next 60dc across, do not turn. [3dc, ch1, 3dc] all in last st to turn the corner, dc evenly down the side of the shawl (I placed 2dc in each ch3/dc, and 1dc in each sc and hdc, which gave me 192 st if you did not add any length), [3dc, ch1, 3dc] all in the corner st to turn the corner, 60dc in the back of the starting ch, [3dc, ch1, 3dc] in the last st to turn the corner, dc evenly along second side (192 st for basic length), [3dc, ch1, 2dc] in last st, sl st to top of 1st st. 530 st if you didn’t not add length.
Round 2: ch3 (does not count as 1 dc), *fpdc first st, bpdc next st* continue in pattern to ch1, ch1, *fpdc, bpdc* down side to ch1, ch1, repeat in pattern all the way around chaining 1 at the all the ch1s. Sl st in top of ch3.
Round 3: rep Round 2
FO
Pockets (make 2):
Ch 43
Row 1(WS): hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st across row, turn. 42 st
Row 2(RS): ch3 (counts as 1dc), *sk2, fptc in next 2 sts, crossing in front of two fptc just made, work fptc in 2 sk sts*. repeat * * to last st, 1dc. turn. 42 st
Row 3: ch3, bptc in next 2 sts, *sk2, bptc next 2 sts, crossing behind the last two bptc made, bptc in 2 sk sts* repeat * * to last 3 sts, bptc in next 2 sts, 1dc. turn. 42 st
Row 4: ch3, *sk2, fptc in next 2, crossing in front of two fptc just made, work fptc in 2 sk sts* repeat * * to last st, 1dc. Turn. 42 st
Row 5 - Row 14: Rep Row 3 - Row 4
Row 15: ch3 (counts as 1 dc), dc across. Turn. 42 st
Row 16: ch2 (does not count as 1 hdc) *1fphdc, 1bphdc* across. Turn. 42 st
Row 17: ch4 (counts as 1dc and 1 ch), *sk1, 1dc, ch1* rep * * until last st, 1dc. Turn. 41st
Row 18: ch3 (counts as 1dc), sk 1st ch1, 1dc forward into next ch1. Then crossing behind 1st dc, 1 dc back into 1st skipped ch1. *Next, 1dc forward into the next unoccupied ch1, then crossing behind 1dc back into previous ch1* rep * * until end, placing last dc forward into ch4, 1dc back into previous ch1, and 1dc into ch4 again. Turn. 40 st
Row 19: ch1 (counts as 1 sc), sc in 1st and each st across. Do not FO, do not Turn. Turn 90 degrees instead to begin working down the side for border.
Row 20: ch2(counts as 1 hdc), 33hdc down the side, place 5hdc in the back of the first ch at the bottom, 40hdc in the back of the beginning ch across, place 5hdc in the last ch, 33hdc up the second side. Turn like normal.
Row 21: ch2 (counts as 1 hdc) sk 1st hdc below *1bphdc, 1fphdc* around. Turn 90 degrees.
Row 22: ch2, 1hdc in the side of hdc from Row 20, into the sc row *fphdc, bphdc* across top, fphdc into ch1 at the start of sc row, hdc in side of hdc from Row 20, hdc in side of hdc from Row 21.
FO
With the Zeros and Crosses stitch at the top, seam pockets onto shawl about 2.5” from each end, 3.25” from each side .
Fringe (optional):
1. I made fringe that is 13” long (6.5” when folded). An easy way to make fringe is to wrap it around something that is about half the size of the fringe you want, that way all the fringe will all be the same length. I used my e-reader to make my fringe. After wrapping it, cut the yarn along the bottom.
2. Next, take 6 strands of the fringe and fold them in half. Pull the loop side through the scarf front to back then fold the loose side through the loop and pull it tight. I used a crochet hook to pull the loop through. Place the fringe evenly spaced along both ends of the shawl.
Happy crocheting!
IF YOU LIKED THIS PATTERN, PLEASE SUPPORT ME ON PATREON OR BUY ME A COFFEE!
BUY ME A COFFEE
SUPPORT ME ON PATREON
I LOVE TO SEE WHAT YOU CREATE!
Please share your creations with the community on social media tagging @ravinsekaidesigns and hashtag #ashleypocketshawl
I can’t wait to see the beautiful things you come up with!
FOLLOW ME ON SOCIAL MEDIA
Facebook: Ravin Sekai Designs
Ravelry: RavinSekai
Instagram: @ravinsekaidesigns
Pinterest: Ravin Sekai Designs
Patreon: Ravin Sekai Designs
Hi! I’m Rachel.
I’m a quirky world traveller, avid knitter, crochet lover, pattern maker, and all around nerd! I spend a lot of time clowning around, and I often have the goofiest smile on my face. This website is the landing place for my new patterns, random thoughts, and general craziness. I hope you enjoy my randomness and my yarnie goodness!